Do I need my chimney lining?

If you have a standard masonry chimney and wish to have a wood burning and/or multi fuel stove installed, it is advised to have fitted at the same time, a stainless steel solid fuel flexible flue liner along with the stove.

Ramsbottom Stoves recommends having a flue liner fitted for the following reasons:

-          Masonry chimneys are likely to have cracks in older properties. Without a liner, any smoke or carbon monoxide fumes from the stove will leak through the cracks in the chimney, possibly exiting into other rooms in the property or into a neighbour’s property.

-          Creosote is a tar like substance that is formed when fumes emitted from the stove cool down as they rise. When these fumes cool down, any substances contained within the fumes condense and are deposited on the inside of the chimney. A flue liner has a smooth inner skin which is hard for the deposits to form, whereas in a masonry chimney it is likely to build up in cracks or holes. Creosote is highly flammable and is often the cause of chimney fires.

-          A flue liner has a smaller diameter then a chimney and is the same from top to bottom. The consistent diameter will allow flue gases to exit the chimney much quicker resulting in less deposits forming. It also means it will warm up much quicker than a chimney without a flue liner.

-          A chimney which has been lined is generally easier to sweep than a chimney which hasn’t been lined.

I have a conventional brick chimney and want to install a stove - what type of flue do I need?

We advise using a stainless steel flexible flue liner which runs the full length of the chimney. Please note that to comply with building regulations, the flue liner must be a minimum diameter of 150mm/6" - unless the connecting stove is DEFRA approved therefore a 125mm/5" is acceptable.

I don’t have a brick built chimney, can I still have a wood/multi-fuel stove installed?

Yes you can. You need a specific type of flue system called twin wall flue (also referred to as factory made metal chimneys). This kind of flue system can be routed in two ways; straight through the inside of the property to exit at the roof if you have the space in the rooms above or through an external wall after exiting the appliance.

What is the purpose of a chimney cowl?

A chimney cowl is designed to prevent bird entry and minimise rain ingress, whilst still allowing the flue gases to escape. For draughty chimneys there are special anti-down draught cowls available.

Why do I need to fit a carbon monoxide alarm as part of my stove and flue installation?

As of 1st October 2010, it became a legal requirement as per the building regulations that a carbon monoxide alarm should be fitted where a new or replacement fixed solid fuel appliance is installed in a dwelling. The alarm must be located in the same room as the appliance.

Points to consider when choosing a stove

Wood burning or Multi-fuel:

Choose a multi-fuel stove if you intend to burn smokeless fuels as well as wood. Multi-fuel stoves are fitted with a grate for the fuel to burn on with an ash pan located underneath. These grates often have a riddling mechanism that allows you to transfer the ash through to the ash pan with a push-pull handle.

Wood burning stoves do not tend to have a grate or even an ash pan – the fuel burns on the bottom of the firebox. This is because wood burns from the top and doesn’t need air underneath to assist in the burning cycle nor does it produce as much ash. In this instance the ash will need to be brushed/shovelled out instead.

However, it is important to note that wood burns better in its own ash, so always keep a small layer of ash on the base of the firebox. Whereas if coal is sat on too much ash the fire will be hard to light and maintain, as the ash restricts the air flow to the coal for it to burn.

Steel or Cast Iron casing:

There should be no difference in quality between steel and cast iron due to the high quality of the material and strict manufacturing and testing procedures.

The main difference is that steel will heat up a lot quicker than cast iron, but cast iron will retain that heat for a lot longer. Cast iron is also easier to cast, so if you want a more detailed and decorative stove, cast iron is the material to choose.

Cleanburn:

Cleanburn refers to the burning of wood only. If a stove has cleanburn technology, this means it will burn off excess hydrocarbons in the smoke by feeding extra air into the stove. This is also referred to as secondary combustion. These excess hydrocarbons would normally be drawn up the flue and be released into the atmosphere. Therefore cleanburn results in increased heating efficiency and fewer harmful emissions into the atmosphere.

Airwash:

All good quality stoves come with an airwash system. Air is flushed against the inside of the glass window which helps reduce soot and tar deposits on the glass. However, you will still need to clean the glass from time to time. If the stove glass blackens badly and regularly, it could be due to burning damp or wet wood.

The right fuel for your stove:

With the autumn and winter seasons creeping ever closer, wood burning stoves will soon be up and running again; an efficient heat source for thousands of homes all over the country. With gas and oil prices on the increase, burning wood is not only cheaper but is more environmentally friendly as it is sustainable. However, for better fuel economy and more heat from your stove, it is important to burn the right wood.

Whatever type of wood you choose to burn, it is important that it is dry and seasoned with a moisture content of under 20%. Kiln dried wood, which has a typical moisture content of 15-20% doesn’t need storing and can be burnt straight away. For wood that has not been kiln dried or seasoned, it ideally needs to be stacked off the ground in such a way that air is able to circulate around the logs. Exposure to the sun and wind will evaporate moisture in the logs, as long as they are protected from rain and snow. To test the moisture content of your logs, we recommend using a moisture meter; wood may often seem dry on the outside but this is not necessarily the case on the inside.

Sign’s you are burning wet wood:

-          Difficulty in lighting and maintaining a fire.

-          Less heat from the fire – if the wood is wet the fire will use all its energy trying to dry out the wood.

-          Blackening of the stove’s glass window.

-          Excessive build-up of creosote in the flue or chimney that causes blockages and restricts air flow. This is dangerous as creosote is a highly flammable material and is often the cause of chimney fires.

DEFRA is the goverment body responsible for testing and approving solid fuel heating appliances for use in smoke controlled areas

History of smoke control zones

The clean air acts of 1956 & 1968 were introduced to deal with the smogs of the 1950s & 1960s which were caused by the widespread burning of coal for domestic heating and by industry. These smogs were blamed for the premature deaths of hundreds of people in the UK. The Acts gave local authorities the powers to control emissions of dark smoke, grit, dust and fumes from industrial premises and furnaces and to declare "smoke controlled areas" in which emissions of smoke from domestic properties are banned. Since then, smoke controlled areas have been introduced in many of our large towns and cities in the UK, most particularly in large parts of the Midlands, North West, South Yorkshire, North East of England, Central and Southern Scotland. The implementation of smoke controlled areas, the increased popularity of natural gas and the changes in the industrial and economic structure of the UK, lead to a substantial reduction in concentrations of smoke and associated levels of sulphur dioxide (SO2) between the 1950s and the present day.

Burning logs in smoke controlled areas

Logs may only be burnt on stoves that have been granted exemption from the regulations by the government through DEFRA. Exempt appliances are appliances (ovens, wood burners and stoves) which have been exempted by Statutory Instruments (Orders) under the clean air act 1993 or clean air order 1981 (Northern Ireland). These have passed tests to confirm that they are capable of burning an unauthorised or inherently smoky solid fuel without emitting smoke.

How does DEFRA affect the installation of a stove and/or flue system?

Before 1st October 2010, building regulations stated that all stoves (wood or multi-fuel) must be fitted with a minimum 6" diameter flue system. However as of 1st October 2010 you can install a 5" diameter flue system ONLY if the connecting stove is DEFRA approved and has a 5" flue outlet.

To clarify, if you are installing a non DEFRA approved stove with a 6" diameter flue system, it is perfectly normal for the stove to have a 5" flue outlet. In this case the piece of flue pipe that connects to the stove with be 5" and then you must use a 5"-6" adaptor that will connect the 5" flue pipe to the 6" system. This still complies with building regulations.

Why installing your own stove isn’t advised

We’ve been asked about installing your own wood burner many times in our showroom.

We have all heard of Gas Safe (previously CORGI). We wouldn’t think of installing a gas appliance ourselves and would seek a Gas Safe Engineer to provide a safe installation. HETAS is the solid fuel regulatory body and the general public need to be made aware that their stove installation should to be carried out by a qualified HETAS Engineer the same way you would use a Gas Safe Engineer.

Unfortunately, the general public are not fully aware of the dangers of installing a solid fuel appliance themselves. The big hike in wood burners has been relatively recent and there has not been too much information readily available about using Hetas qualified installers.

Many a time we’ve been told by a customer ‘how hard can it be to install a stove, it’s only a box with a pipe coming off the top of it’.

If only it were that simple.

In November 2010, a homeowner in Loughborough tried installing a wood burner himself, with the end result being a burnt down bungalow – luckily he escaped unscathed. But, in addition to losing his home, he faced over £4,000 in fines for breaching building regulations. The flue was incorrectly fitted, directly contacting the timber and plastic eaves of the bungalow; he had failed to apply to the local council to carry out the work and generally failed to install the stove in a professional manner.

Fire hazard is not the only risk with wood burners:  In May of the same year a 19 year old boy from Dorset died of carbon monoxide poisoning, due to a poorly fitted wood burner, installed by his father.  Blame was placed with the manufacturer’s instructions, which didn’t include important details. There was no mention of carbon monoxide poisoning or a need for additional ventilation.  A qualified HETAS Engineer would know about the hazards of carbon monoxide gas and would ensure there was the required ventilation for the stove.

Carbon monoxide is an odourless and colourless gas that causes health defects in large quantities. It is produced during the wood-burning process and should be ventilated out through the flue. However, leaks in the system or improper combustion as a result of a poor installation results in carbon monoxide being produced in larger quantities and seeping out throughout the home. Exposure leads to unconsciousness, brain damage or even death. As part of building regulations, a carbon monoxide alarm should always be installed when fitting a stove.

Also, if a stove is installed without the required clearances to allow airflow around it then you also run the risk of overheating and damaging your stove and in extreme cases the stove can split, which again can lead to carbon monoxide spillage.

Just these examples show why it is imperative you use a qualified Hetas engineer to install your stove. They have been trained accordingly and will issue a Hetas certificate of compliance for your peace of mind and your continuation of home insurance.